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restaurant reviews
| 7/16/2008 Email this article • Print this article | |
Walk The Line
By: Kirsten Wasson
On its blog, the Fine Line Bistro describes its ambience as one "where lines can be crossed. Our kitchen is open, you can sit at a bar across from the chef while he is making your dinner." The metaphor about space rings true. Although the restaurant is one large room, it feels more like three different ones - the kitchen, the bar, the dining room. Noah and I had a pretty in-depth discussion there and, despite a full house, it felt private. We also had a fantastic meal.
Complimentary pickled baby asparagus arrived at our table before we ordered. Piquant, firm, and appetite-inspiring, they were so much better than the conventional Pre-Meal Carbs. I tasted a tiny bit of the soup of the day, a creamy but clean broccoli chowder that walked the fine line between comfort food and haute cuisine.
Noah's chipotle mussels earned raves. Spicy, not meant for the faint of tongue perhaps, but the broth wasn't simply hot - lightly flavored with thyme, cilantro and lemon, it was pronounced "mad subtle" by the lip-smacker. My spinach crostini carried a spread of goat cheese and herbs, and wore lively strings of balsamic reduction for dipping. Very delicate.
Our service was of the best sort: easy-going but attentive. If we had been in Manhattan, our waiter Davy might have been a little cool, and the atmosphere a little stiff, preoccupied with its brick-walled and orange-paint chicness.
The place is beautifully designed, simultaneously spare (Danish furniture) and warm (cozy lighting). But there's nothing pretentious going on at the Fine Line. Danny, one of the owners, stopped by our table with a friendly and casual hello.
Danny and Midge opened Fine Line six months ago, after a long, slow birth that included general contracting with Seth, the chef. Seth also happens to be a welder, and Danny happens to have been to architecture school, so visual detail is a well-honed matter at Fine Line. All three have worked in several Ithaca restaurants for many years, and their chief concept in designing their own place was: "where would we want to eat?" The late night hours, the open kitchen, and the fresh ingredients were key elements.
My key element for the evening was a grilled red snapper paired with a quinoa salad and a roasted red pepper coulis. The fish was perfectly cooked and the salad a lovely, hearty compliment. A glass of Gavi was clean and refreshingly crisp.
The wine list includes nine whites, seven reds, champagne, and port. Beer options abound; over 30 bottled and draft beers are listed.
Noah's linguini with shitake mushrooms was earthy and rich. Fine Line offers several vegetarian options as well as possibilities for the vegan diner (noted on the menu).
The evening we were there, Fine Line offered 10 entrées, the prices of which ranged from 10-24 dollars. Appetizers, including soup and salad, numbered nine, ranging from three dollars to 12.
For dessert, Noah and I tried the "pain ou plaisir" bread pudding which was unlike any (bread pudding, pain, or pleasure) I've ever had. It was, I kid you not, a light bread pudding, more like a torte in texture. Flavored with almonds and creamily oozing on its plate, our pudding indicated no pain. The proof was in the pleasure.
Other desserts included Midge-made cheesecake, and a ginger crème brulée. We left the Fine Line satiated but not stuffed, well-fed on fresh food, clean and subtle. Indulged, but guiltless. We walked that Fine Line, and I recommend that you do so too.
Fine Line Bistro is located at 404 West State St., and is open for dinner from 5pm-12am, with coffee, wine, and beer available at 4pm. Their phone is 607-277-1077. Fine Line is closed on Tuesdays.
Restaurant stories in the Ithaca Times are generally done with the full knowledge of the establishment's owners. The writer interviews staff members and is presented with a meal for two as a courtesy of the restaurant. n
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Suicide has recently come to Ithaca in a very public, and at times controversial, way. This past academic year, after three years with no suicides, Cornell experienced what is known in the scientific community as a "suicide cluster." OK, so maybe you're like me and you thought this whole JetBlue flight attendant story was good for maybe one news cycle.  |
